It’s funny how we might think open pores would be something that teenagers suffer with and we really wouldn’t expect them to be a problem in to our forties and fifties. 

The fact is as we get older with sun damage and other influencing factors pores can become enlarged and generally give an uneven skin tone.  To treat enlarged pores, we need to look at two things:  Firstly, how do they become enlarged, and secondly how can you treat or reduce them.

Our ancestor’s faces were covered in hair helping to keep them waterproof, as we have evolved we no longer have quite the same amount of hair but we do have the pilosebaceous unit, composed of hair follicle, sebaceous gland and an arrector pili muscle.  Pores play an important part of our skin structure and are often more obvious on the central areas of the face where we have oil glands. 

Skin starts to decline in our middle to late twenties; damage in the deeper layers becomes more visible on the skin surface.  A young healthy skin will constantly shed dead cells to appear smooth and hydrated.  With the loss of Elastin and Collagen skin becomes slacker and pores appear more open.  Add to this sun damage, the use of some medications and anti-depressants, and a genetic tendency towards acne we find our pores appear larger and open.  Oil production from the sebaceous gland causing the drainage sebaceous duct to produce more cells leading to white heads and black heads and potentially result in spots and acne.

Dr Nick Lowe the renowned Dermatologist recommends several options including a new type of microdermabrasion called Derma Sweep which will stimulate the turnover of cells and infuse prescribed lotions of Salicylic and Lactic acid to treat the skin. This is a mild noninvasive system which gently lifts and vacuums away dead skin while increasing the blood flow to the skins surface, encouraging collagen production.

Niacinamide Vitamin B3 can be effective in the treatment of inflammatory skin conditions, it improves skin barrier and pore size and prescription drugs such as low dose antibiotics and retinoid’s, e.g Tretinoin and Isotretinoin are frequently prescribed by skin physicians.  Dr Lowe suggests combining this type of prescription cream with synergistic non-prescription cream e.g. Dr Nick Lowe. 

Dr Nick Lowe was the first certified practitioner to offer Intracel treatments where radio frequency is used to tighten the skin which can reduce pore size while rejuvenating the skin.

Using the Dr Nick Lowe Anti Blemish range of high performance formulations will maintain a clear and healthy complexion and can help reduce pore size.

Appointments can be made with Dr Nick Lowe at the Cranley Clinic full information can be found on the website. Dr Nick Lowe

Anti-Ageing Expert Kathryn Danzey looks at a number of ways to tackle the problem of open pores and suggests a combined approach of resurfacing and cell
renewal which will give the best results.

Firstly ensure that you cleanse at least twice a day to remove dirt and sebum.

Immediate results:
Wear a primer under your make up.
A good primer will smooth out fine lines and wrinkles and fill in enlarged pores so that makeup doesn’t sit in them.  Daniel Sandler’s is award winning and gives great results.  Retexturizing Face Primer SPF 20 by Daniel Sandler £22.50

See a difference in a day:
Exfoliate regularly; skin resurfacing is the key to refined pores. 
Diamond microdermabrasion can be very effective at polishing the skin; the right system will also gently lift congestion out of the pores.

Over 1 month
IPL and light based treatments stimulate collagen to tone and slightly tighten the skin to temporarily reduce the appearance of open pores.  There is a vast range of light based treatments from LED to Laser, some are excellent and newer technologies are having less down time.

Combined technology
New innovative systems combine treatments and, Fusion SLR incorporates laser, acoustic wave and diamond technologies in a simple three-step process. 

Step 1 Diamond microdermabrasion resurfaces the skin by removing dead skin cells and congestion.                                                                                                                                                         

Step 2 Hyaluronic acid is infused in to the skin to increase hydration reducing the appearance of open pores.                                                                                                   

Step 3 Red light is used to stimulate the production of collagen and tighten the skin, resulting in a firmer texture and glowing complexion.
TCA Peels (tri-chloro-acetic acid) have an effect on the walls of the pore, fine scabs are formed on the treated pores, which fall off in 7 – 10 days giving a 30 – 50% reduction in pore size.  This method may not be suitable for women of colour, as irregular results may occur.

My plan of action
Use good quality products with a gentle glycolic action to remove dead skin cells and freshen on a daily basis. The best way to do this is have a consultation in salon, this should be free.  For a porcelain look, use a primer to fill and smooth below your foundation.  If you can afford it, invest in salon treatment as discussed above, I would favour diamond dermabrasion and if possible followed by a light based treatment.

This article is a summary of treatments and products that are available; we advise that you have a professional consultation to ensure that they are suitable for you.
For more information on products and treatments contact Kathryn Danzey through our online ask the expert section HERE