Health, Diet, Nutrition
Cow’s milk is innocuous looking stuff, we’ve been drinking it for centuries with few apparent side effects and it remains a natural, nutritionally dense, provider of protein, calcium, potassium, zinc and more. So why the seemingly endless thirst for alternatives?
New fashions and trends in food and drink, for starters, with many a shiny, wholesome celebrity and food blogger waxing lyrical about one of the non-dairy varieties. Then we’ve been sold the idea that many of these alternatives are automatically ‘healthier’ because they are derived from plants. And of course, we are pretty much overwhelmed by consumer choice everywhere we turn these days and there is no reason why milk should be any different. Just check out the sheer range of dairy-free options in any big supermarket: soya milk, rice milk, coconut milk, oat milk, buffalo milk, camel milk and nut milks – and you probably won’t be surprised to learn that sales of these dairy alternatives almost tripled between 2011 and 2013, according to Mintel.
What has also been a significant change is our increasing insistence that we can no longer stomach dairy. As Rick Miller, Nutrition Manager at A2 Milk points out, ‘Milk consumption has been reducing in the UK since the early 1980s. There are many reasons for this but one is the trend for self-diagnosis of food intolerances and cows’ milk is often pinpointed as a trigger food.’
So is it? Well, around 12 million people in the UK seem to think so and have diagnosed themselves as dairy or lactose intolerant, although as Dr Anton Emmanuel, lecturer in neuro-gastroenterology at University College London points out those who have a formal medical diagnosis ‘are a fraction of this figure.’ Even so, many people report unpleasant symptoms like lethargy, bloating, cramps, nausea and diarrhoea after drinking dairy milk – with many believing they are unable to tolerate the sugar in it known as lactose. Primary lactose intolerance, however, is very rare in the UK although it should be pointed out that we can become temporarily lactose intolerant say, after a bout of illness.
So is making the switch to one of the many milk alternatives better for us? Maybe, maybe not. First of all a new piece of research suggests people who struggle with dairy might be intolerant not to the sugars in it but to a protein it contains called A1. Switching to a dairy milk containing A2 protein (select herds like Guernsey and Jersey are found to produce a higher percentage of this protein) has been found to be easier on the gut for many who report problems. Around two million litres of A2 milk were drunk last year in the UK and while it is not a panacea for everyone with sensitivity to A1 dairy, many report improved digestive health after switching and say it tastes no different to any other dairy milk. Plus at around £1.39 a litre it is not much more than your usual dairy pint. (Compare this to some of the other milks on offer like grass fed camel’s milk which is selling for the princely sum of £5.50 a 500ml bottle. If ever a case could be made for crying over spilt milk surely it is if you’d spent over a fiver on it…)
They can certainly help improve your gut health if you are sensitive or intolerant to dairy, yes. And for those of us who plain don’t like the taste of cow’s milk they are a very welcome addition. ‘But,’ says Rick Miller, ‘most commercial milk alternatives are highly processed and due to the low nutritional profile they are fortified with vitamins and minerals. Plus they often contain added sugar to improve flavour.’ Some experts also suggest the nutrients in dairy alternatives are not as easily absorbed as those from cow’s’ milk and the fact remains milk is one of the best sources of dietary calcium readily absorbed by the body (although the calcium in leafy greens like kale and broccoli is also easily absorbed. Other good food sources include tofu, pulses, sesame seeds and almonds). The point is if you have a low calcium diet you could potentially be storing up health problems for yourself.
Dr Anton Emmanuel says, ‘A big concern is that a perceived intolerance of milk and dairy can mean a lack of calcium and other bone-building minerals in the diet. We’ve seen problems such as thinning bones, particularly in women around the menopause, after spending so much time trying to avoid milk.’ Rick Miller adds, ‘A single glass of milk provides over a third of our calcium needs, our complete vitamin B 12 needs and is an easily absorbed protein source. The medical consequences of avoiding it could leave you at increased risk of bone fractures, pernicious anaemia (B 12 deficiency) and osteoporosis.’ But what if you have avoided dairy for decades – are you more at risk? ‘We know from research that women who avoid milk and dairy in their youth are at a greater risk of osteoporosis and bone fractures when they reach peri-menopausal and menopausal age. The risk also depends on other factors like how much physical activity they do, smoking, dietary trends (like veganism) and alcohol and caffeine consumption – as these also affect bone density’, says Miller. He adds that even if you are showing symptoms of osteoporosis drinking cows’ milk could help slow the progression of the condition.
Ultimately no milk – dairy or otherwise – is wholly healthy or unhealthy and if you prefer a non-dairy alternative stick with it – just choose the unsweetened versions or maybe whip up one of your own.
Almond milk – fewer calories than skimmed dairy milk but lower in protein. Avoid the sweetened varieties as they can be very high in sugar. Alternatively, make your own by soaking unsalted almonds in water overnight, drain them, put them in a blender with fresh water and a pinch of salt. Blend for a couple of minutes. Strain the liquid through muslin and chill the ‘milk’. (If you want to give the milk a natural sweetness nutritionist Rob Hobson suggests scraping the seeds from a vanilla pod into the blender as you add the nuts and salted water).
Coconut milk – fat content is low and it is naturally sweet. Often fortified with B12 but the sugar content can vary from brand to brand so read the label.
Soya milk – fewer calories, less saturated fat but a similar level of protein to cows’ milk. It is often highly processed and can contain lots of additives.
Oat milk – made from oats mixed with oil and water and enriched with vitamins and calcium. Rich in beta-glucans, the fibre which has been linked to lowering cholesterol.
Rice milk – made from rice, sunflower oil and water, many are fortified with calcium and vitamins D 2 and B12. Often highly processed and fairly high in sugars.
Related article: Soyabella Nut Milk Maker Review
